Shokupan (Japanese Milk Bread) With Easy (and Useful) Instructions

Shokupan. It’s what sandwich bread wants to be when it grows up. It’s the Japanese bread that works equally well in sweet ogura toast, inexpenive Konbini sandwiches, and ultra-luxorious wagyu sandos.

This recipe takes a bit more time and practice than most, but as far as bread goes it’s actually very easy to make. So read all the directions, set aside some time, and give bread-making a go (it’s an addicting hobby).

What is Shokupan?

Shokupan is a light, sweet, and fluffy Japanese bread. It’s made from an enriched dough with a lot of milk, butter, and sugar. However, it’s not quite as rich as brioche or challah.

Think American sandwich bread if it was good, and in giant slices (kinda ironic since Japan’s main carb is rice).

It’s been a breakfast staple in Japan since its westernization in the eighteen and nineteen hundreds, and now almost 53% percent of Japanese people eat bread instead of rice for breakfast, mostly due to convenience and speed, according to this survey.

I understand and if you’re a whole wheat, rye, and sourdough type of person. Most of the time I want my bread to have a deep, savory flavor, a crisp crust, and texture too. 

But there’s a time and dish for everything. Could you imagine a fruit sando with whole wheat? I don’t think so. And what about all the dishes you already know, but you can take to the next level with Japanese milk bread?

Secrets to the Best Shokupan

So what separates shokupan from all the other loaves? Two techniques take Japanese bread to the next level. So DON’T skip them. 

#1 Tangzhong 

Tangzhong is a way to pregelatinize a portion of flour by cooking it with water until it reaches a thick paste (per King Arthur Baking). This paste gives Japanese milk bread its signature tender, pillowy texture.

It also makes the bread retain moisture longer, so not only is it remarkably soft on the first day, but it stays that way without crazy preservatives or anything like that. Sounds like a win-win.

Plus it makes high-hydration doughs (like this one!) much easier to work with, so you can say good by to sticky, spirit crushing dough-failures (speaking from experience).

#2 Skim Milk Powder/Nonfat Dry Milk

In addition to the tangzhong method, dry nonfat or skim milk powder is another out-of-the-ordinary ingredient.

In Japan, skim milk powder is usually used, but dry nonfat milk is more available in America. Skim milk powder must have a protein content of at least 34%, whereas nonfat dry milk powder has no standardized protein level (per Think USA Dairy), but either one works.

Dry milk is like magic in baking. I’m not a scientist (and you probably aren’t either), so in simple terms, the milk powder makes baked goods milkier (sweeter, richer, softer, and more carmelized), without adding excess hydration (per Bon Appetit).

You load shokupan up with as much milk as possible, using a tangzhong to get away with higher hydration, then add more milk in dry form. That’s what sets this bread apart from others, and why it’s so delicious.

Do I need a Japanese Loaf Pan for Shokupan?

No, you do not need any special loaf pan to make shokupan. I use a regular loaf pan for my Japanese milk bread. But this does come with two downsides:

1) Your bread won’t be as big as the standard Japanese bakery size,

2) You will have a round-topped loaf instead of a perfect square.

These aren’t huge problems; they mainly come into play when making sandos. Honestly, it is a little disappointing that your sandwiches aren’t as big as usual and you have to cut more of the end, but fruit sandos are still fruit sandos.

That being said, if you want the authentic size, Asai Shoten’s loaf pan is the best way to go, according to Just One Cookbook, which has an in-depth guide to purchasing and taking care of these. I currently don’t own one, but hey, gifts are always welcome 😄.

Note: At the time of taking the pictures for this post, I did not have a Japanese loaf pan. However, I currently use (and love!) this Chef Made loaf pan from Weee.

Ingredients for Shokupan

Bread Flour – Bread flour is a must-have pantry staple, it makes dough come together much more smoothly and helps give a better structure and texture.

All-Purpose Flour – AP flour is used in the tangzhong.

Milk – For Japanese Milk Bread, you have to have milk (duh), and whole milk is the best because it has the most fat and, therefore the most flavor.

I haven’t tried shokupan with non-dairy or lactose-free milk, but I’ll work on that ASAIHT (As Soon As I Have Time)

Nonfat Dry Milk – You can find this in the baking section of many supermarkets. Skim milk powder works too.

Eggs – Eggs help contribute to rich brown caramelization on the top. Large eggs, about 50 grams each are necessary for this recipe.

Salt -Salt is a vital ingredient in this recipe since shokupan is a high-sugar bread and needs something to counterbalance it.

Yeast – Instant/active dry yeast is used in shokupan. I do about 2% yeast in bakers’ percentages, higher than usual, making the dough rise faster without developing a sour, fermented flavor.

Butter – Unsalted, please🙏.

Sugar  – Shokupan tends to be quite sweet, however, not quite as sweet as say, brioche.

How to Make Shokupan

Note: This recipe makes two full sized loaves of Japanese milk bread, which isn’t a problem for a family of eight. However, if you don’t eat very much bread, you may want to freeze half of the dough, or freeze one baked loaf.

Step 1 – Mix Dry Ingredients

Mix salt, nonfat dry milk, and bread flour (do not add the tangzhong flour) in a stand mixer’s bowl.

I HIGHLY recommend you use a scale. They’re cheap, it will make all your baking more accurate, and eliminates a huge amount of dishes when it is time to clean (if that doesn’t seal the deal, I don’t know what will). Set aside.

Step 2 – Bloom Yeast

Add 220 grams of milk (about 1 cup minus 1⅓ tbsp.) along with the butter and sugar in a microwave-safe bowl or cup.

Microwave for 30-second intervals, stirring intermittently,  until the milk reaches 90-110 degrees Fahrenheit, about 1 ½ to 2 minutes. 

Add the yeast to the warm milk mixture and let it bloom for about 10 minutes.

Step 3 – Make the Tangzhong

Meanwhile, whisk the milk, water, and flour for the tangzhong until combined in a small saucepot. 

Heat the tangzhong over medium heat stirring often, for about 5 minutes, until the tangzhong is thick and paste-like.

In the beginning, you won’t need to whisk very much ( still watch it like a hawk). But at about the 3-minute mark, you should be whisking almost constantly so as not to burn the tangzhong. I’ve never burned a tangzhong, but dairy is easy to scorch, so just be attentive.

Step 4 – Mix All Ingredients

Add your cooked tangzhong to the mixing bowl, as well as the milk mixture, and two eggs.

Mix on low speed for about 2 minutes, until incorporated,

then turn the speed up to medium-high and mix for about 8 minutes, scraping down the sides occasionally.

The dough will appear sticky and shaggy at first; you just have to trust that the gluten will do its magic. 

Step 5 – Finish Kneading By Hand

After approximately 10 minutes of mixing the dough should be much firmer and easier to work with.

Knead by hand for about 3-4 minutes until the dough is completely supple and smooth. It should have the ability to be pulled and stretched but still give a little resistance. 

Step 6 – First Rise

Roll the dough into a smooth ball,  transfer it to a greased bowl, and let it rise in a warm place for about 50 minutes (covered with a damp cloth).

I usually start preheating my oven for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, then turn it off and let the dough rise in the oven.

Step 7 – Shape the Dough

After 50 minutes, the dough should have risen to about double in size and be a beautiful round ball.

Release all your anger by punching it’s the perfect surface to release the excess air (and frustration).

Transfer the dough to a cutting board and separate it into six equal-sized portions about 220 grams each.

Roll each portion into a long rectangle,

then roll the short end in on itself

like a short and stubby scroll (or a pumpkin roll). Repeat with the remaining portions.

Step 8 – Second Rise

Spray two loaf pans with nonstick spray or grease with butter. Place 3 dough rolls horizontally in each loaf pan.

Cover the pans with a damp cloth…

and let the dough rise until it has reached the top of the pan (over the top if you’re using a regular loaf pan), for about 1 hour.

Step 9 – Bake

About 10 minutes before the dough is done rising, preheat your oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Brush the tops of each loaf with a thin layer of milk, and bake on the middle rack for 30-32 minutes.

Step 10 – Cool and Store

Once your bread is a rich golden brown, remove the loaves from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack for 3 hours before slicing or wrapping.

I usually cut each loaf into about 10-12 slices and use it to make sandwiches (like these fruit sandos), toast, and even breading for katsu.

It stores well (wrapped or in a Ziploc bag) for about 4-6 days, make sure to check for mold on the later end. Also shokupan tastes best fresh, but even stale shokupan can be used for croutons or breadcrumbs.

Ingredients

Tangzhong

• 84 g. (1/4 c. + 5 tsp.) whole milk
• 84 g. (1/4 c. + 5 tsp.) water
• 28 g. (about 1/4 c.) all-purpose flour  

Bread

• 600 g. (4 3/4 c. + 1 tbsp.) bread flour
• 23 g. (1/4 c.) nonfat dry milk 
• 12 g. of salt
• 9 g. (1 tbsp.) of yeast
• 2 eggs, about 70 g. each
• 220 g. (1 c. – 4 tsp.) of whole milk, plus more for brushing
• 100 g. (about 7 tbsp.) butter
• 90 g. (6 1/2 tbsp.) of sugar

Directions

Pre-Kneading

1. Mix salt, nonfat dry milk, and bread flour (do not add the tangzhong flour) in a stand mixer’s bowl. Set aside.
2. Add 220 grams of milk (about 1 cup minus 1 ⅓  tbsp.) along with the butter and sugar in a microwave-safe bowl or cup.
3. Microwave for 30-second intervals, stirring intermittently, until the milk reaches 90-110 degrees Fahrenheit, about 1 ½ to 2 minutes. 
4. Add the yeast to the warm milk mixture and let it bloom for about 10 minutes.

Tangzhong

1. Meanwhile, whisk the milk, water, and flour for the tangzhong until combined in a small saucepot. 
2. Heat the tangzhong over medium heat stirring often, for about 5 minutes, until the tangzhong is thick and paste-like.

Kneading, Rising, and Baking

1. Add your cooked tangzhong to the mixing bowl, as well as the milk mixture, and two eggs.
2. Mix on low speed for about 2 minutes, until incorporated, then turn the speed up to medium-high and mix for about 8 minutes, scraping down the sides occasionally.
3. After approximately 10 minutes of mixing, knead the by hand for about 3-4 minutes until the the dough is completely supple and smooth.
4. Roll the dough into a smooth ball, transfer it to a greased bowl, and let it rise, in a warm place for about 50 minutes (covered with a damp cloth).
5. After 50 minutes, the dough should have risen to about double in size. and be a beautiful round ball. Punch the pocket out of it to release the excess air.
6. Transfer the dough to a cutting board and separate it into six equal-sized portions about 220 grams each.
7. Roll each portion into a long rectangle, then roll the short end in on itself like a short and stubby scroll (or a pumpkin roll). Repeat with the remaining portions.
8. Spray two loaf pans with nonstick spray or grease with butter. Place 3 dough rolls horizontally in each loaf pan.
9. Cover the pans with a damp cloth and let the dough rise until it has reached the top of the pan (over the top if you’re using a regular loaf pan), for about 1 hour.
10. About 10 minutes before the dough is done rising, Preheat your oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
11. Brush the tops of each loaf with a thin layer of milk, and bake on the middle rack for 30-32minutes.
12. Once your bread is a rich golden brown, remove the loaves from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack for 3 hours before slicing and/or wrapping.
13. Cut each loaf into 10-12 slices and use it to make fruit sandos, ogura toast, and more.
14. Store for 4-6 days at room temperature.